The ni-Vanuatu, as the peoples of Vanuatu are known today, are most the most welcoming people in the Pacific-despite colonialists who came for sandalwood and left with slaves. Vanuatu’s fractured terrain of volcanoes and lush forests has produced a kaleidoscope of cultures and more than 100 indigenous languages. After last century’s coups, Vanuatu now enjoys its independence. An increasing number of travelers to the local economy by exploring the jungle above and below the water.

April to October (the southern winter)

Witnessing a very old extreme sport as the islanders on Pentecost land-dive to guarantee their yam harvest Keeping your eyes peeled for dugongs (sea cows) while snorkeling Watching from the haven of a beach hut on Vila as hundreds of fruit bats cloud the metallic sky before a wild storm Finding the beach you’ve always dreamt of, only to discover there’s an even better one on the next island there are 83 islands) Joining in local volleyball games with the owners of the biggest smiles and blondest afros in the world (ni-Vanuatu children)

Read Jeremy McClancy’s To Kill a Bird with Stones-an exceptional history of Vanuatu right up to its independence in 1980

Listen to the tamtam or slit-drums-still crafted from traditional designs, they were once used to send coded messages between communities

Watch Finding Nemo-if you want to see film that has had a devastating effect on Vanutu’s sea life due to the demand for pet fish

Eat a banana as long as your arm, baked sweet in the oven and sliced like a steak on your plate

Drink aelan bia (island beer), otherwise known as kava, the beacalming brew which most island men imbibe at the end of a long day. Women can drink it at Port Vila’s kava bars.

Tank yu tumas (‘thank you very much’ in Bislama)

Jungle; local dances; atmospheric drumming; wild boars; carvings and spears; aqua water; snorkeling and scuba diving; big bananas; ‘cooking pots’; wild cyclones

This laid-back place is uptight about magic; the cuisine is well regarded throughout the Pacific

The practice of magic is generally tabu for women, but most adult men in traditional parts

of Vanuatu know a few useful spells. These may be used to further love affairs or produce good crops. A practicing magician is employed for more specialist tasks such as raising or storms, healing the sick, banishing spirits or controlling volcanoes.