Tobago and its twin island, Trinidad, are the Caribbean’s odd couple. ‘Little sister’ Tobago is relaxed, slow-paced and largely undeveloped. Trinidad is a densely populated, thriving island with a cosmopolitan population and strong regional influence. li’s famous for hosting the loudest and wildest Carnival in the Caribbean, whereas on Tobago the reefs are calm and protected and the beaches are good.

Mid-April to mid-December, or go two days before Ash Wednesday for Carnival

Partying the night away at Port-of Spain’s spectacular Carnival festival Swimming and snorkeling at palm-fringed, white-sand beaches on Tobago Spotting birds at Trinidad’s Caroni Swamp Diving at Buccoo Reef off Tobago Exploring Trinidad’s wild and raral east coast-a mix of lonely beaches, rough Atlantic water and mangrove swamps

Read A House for Mr Biswas by VS Naipaul-dig deep into country’s multi-ethnic culture by reading this vived portrait of life as an East lndian in Trinidad

Listen to long-time king of calypso, The Mighty Sparrow

Watch Hosay Trinidad, about the observance of Shi’ite Muharram rites on Trinidad

Eat callaloo (a thick green made with okra, onions, spices and the leaves of the dasheen plant, onions, peppers and seasoning) or head to a beachside eatery for a shark-bake (a sandwich made with a slab of fresh shark and deep-fried bread)

Drink ginger beer or sorrel (made from the blossoms of a type of hibiscus and mixed with cinnamon and other spices)

Carnival!

Twin islands; cricket matches; white-sand beaches and glass-clear water; bird watching enthusiasts

The oddest attraction in Trinidad is Pitch Lake, a continually replenishing lake of tar, which is the world’s single largest supply of natural bitumen; Tobago has only 4% of the country’s population

The lead up to Carnival begins with a weekend of resting and relaxing, saving up the energy needed for the ensuing festivities. Someone in the neighbourhood might make a braf (a sort fish stew) and you’ll take your only regular meal for the next 48 hours. Come Monday or June Tuesday (Shrove Tuesday) the party begins in earnest. ln the predawn hours, the sounding of a whistle and the banging of a cabway (single sheep-skin drum) ushers in the beginning of Carnival. By the time the sun comes up, entire streets have been closed and many people don’t bother to go work. Bosses don’t mind; they’re out in the streets too! Schools don’t even bother opening.