Romania is the Wild West of Eastern Europe, a country where tourism means you and a horse and cart. But it’s chasing the dreams of the West. Straddling the rugged Carpathian Mountains, Romania offers extraordinary kaleidoscope of cultures and sights, including majestic castles, medieval towns, superb hiking and skiing; and Bucharest has a charm all of its own. Romania’s greatest asset is its diversity, whether you want to stray off the beaten tourist track or stay well and truly on it.

May and June, followed by September and early October 28, 2007

Descending underground to a cave or salt mine in Transylvania, Crisana or Banat

Sharpening your fangs and practicing ‘l vant to suck your blurd’ at Dracula’s castle in Bran Experiencing ‘cart-rage’ when trying to overtake a horse-drawn cart on a winding mountain road Slapping on some smelly, curative on the Black Sea coast Braving a vigorous drinking session of 60-proof moonshine palinca (brandy) with exuberant locals Marvelling at the striking baroque architecture at Brasov and castle-spotting at Rasnov

Read Norman Manea’s The Hooligan’s Return’s A Memoir, relating the return of this

Listen to Pasarea Colibri, a very popular contemporary band with great folk-inspired soft rock and pop tunes

Watch Cold Mountain, directed by Anthony Minghella and starring Nicole kidman and Jude Law, which was filmed at the Carpathian Mountains

Eat ciorba de burta, a lightly garlicky soup made of tripe

Drink wine, wine and more wine-among the best are Cotnari, Murfatlar, Odobesti, Tarnave and Valea Calugareasca

Buna (hello)

A film-set for cheap horror flicks; mountain festivals; Dracula and all things Transylvanian; Queen Marie of Romania; imposing castles; medieval villages; wine producers; rolling green countryside; a country that’s ripe for discovery

Romania is usually in the top five countries in the world for having the highest marriage rates.

Romanians tend to be down-to-earth, don’t waste time niceties, and like people who are open but also pragmatic and forthright, They have a Latin temperament and are often strong-minded, charming, stubbornly proud and staunchly aware of their roots. Most take great pride in their country’s rich natural heritage and folk culture. Befriend any Romanian and within hours an expedition to the mountains will be mapped out for you.