Puerto Rican culture is a mixture of Spanish, African and Taino traditions topped with a centry-thick layer of American influence-and consequently nothing in Pueto Rico is one-dimensional, from architecture to political identity. Spanish is the island’s main language, but people also use many English, Amerindian and African words. Roman Catholicism reigns, but is infused with spiritualism and folkloric traditions. The music keesic keeps time with African la bomba and also ‘Nuyorican’ salsa hails from émigrés in New York. Puerto Rico is uniquely a part of and apart from, the US and the rest of the Caribbean.

To avoid crowds and inflated prices, come during hurricane season (May-November)- but keep an eye on weather reports!

Drinking café can leche dawn near after a night of dancing Taking sunset walks at El Morro when the evening breeze picks up Enjoying the lush rainforest at El Yunque Swimming in the bioluminescent bay at Vieques Lazing in hammock or dipping into the crystalline water on Culebra Sampling fine rums native to Puerto Rico Winter whale-watching or surfing in Rincon Wandering through Ponce’s historic district brimming with criollo architecture

Read Rosario Ferre’s revisionist stories in Sweet Diamond Dust. Christina Duffy Burnett’s Foreign in a Domestic is an examination of American imperialism.

Listen to coquis, Puerto Rico’s native frogs; the infamous sound of Tito Puente and Willie Colon; the compilations Viva Salsa and Salsa Superhits by Fania Records

Watch the acclaimed West Side Story which represents stateside Puerto Ricans of the day. See Rachel Ortiz’ heartfelt documentary Mi Puerto Rico.

Eat plantain dishes like mofongos and tostones, sofrito and asopao de pollo (traditional meals), carrucho (conch), tembleque (coconut pudding)

Drink pina coladas, Cuba libres, mojitos or any other rum drink, batidos (milkshakes) made with namey (a sweet, fragrant fruit) or guanabana (soursop)

Ay, bandito! (Poor thing /What a shame /Oh dear!)

Living la vida loca; the 51 st state; the rhythm and rhyme of Nuyorican poets; Bacarid
rum cocktails

The immensity of the cruise ships that come and go like mobile cities; the incongruity of using the US dollar

Puerto Rico is where four centuries of Spanish Caribbean culture come face to face with the American convenience store. This leads to some strange juxtapositions-parking lots and plazas, freeways and fountains, skyscrapers and shanties-but it’s all apiece with the Caribbean’s hybrid history.