Today ‘Palestine’ is two territories of lsrael: Gaza in west lsrael, on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, and the West Bank bordering Jordan. lt’s the birthplace of Christ, the Holy Land of the medieval Crusades, a landscape of striking contrasts and a travel agent’s worst nightmare. Despite ongoing efforts the UN, the long-fought struggle for independence, charcterised terrorism, has resulted in a land ravaged by violence. The religious significance of the area to Arabs, Jews and Christians, combined with its strategic location has made the Palestinian Territories among the most hotly disputed bits of real estate in the modern world.

September to November and March to May are best, but check the political climate rather than the temperature

Visiting the Byzantine mosque at Hisham’s Palace in ancient Jericho, the world’s oldest town Experiencing the kitsch ‘mangerfication’ of Bethlehem by taking a trip to Shepherds’ Fields and a look at Milk Grotto Chapel-a shrine to the Virgin Mary’s lactations Floating in the eerie tranquility of the Dead Sea Observing the enchanting old quarter of Nablus and its impressive minaret skyline Swimming in the natural spring of Wadi Qelt, a na ture reserve near Jericho

Read Gaza: Legacy of an Occupation by Dick Doughty and Mohammed El-Aydi, which gives an emotive, gritty view Palestinian life in the Strip. And of course, the Bible is an informative travelogue

Listen to tinny Arabic pop VERY LOUDLY from street-traders’ cassette decks

Watch the Palestinian version of a ‘road trip’ movie, Route 181-Fragments of a Journey to Palestine-lsrael. Directed by Michel Khleifi (Palestinia) and Eyal Sivan Route (lsraeli), it charts the Un-imposed borders decided in Resolution 181, 1947

Eat a street-stall swharma (grilled meat sliced from a spit and serve in pita bread)

Drink juice made from tamarind, dates and almonds

Al-hamdu lillah’ al as-salama (thank God for your safe arrival)

Birthplac3e of Christ; armed checkpoints; Yasser Arafat; massive concrete ‘peace walls’ covered with razor wire; Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO); Turkish baths; heart-starting stovetop coffee; suicide bombers; mosques; minarets; searing, dry heat

Cash, what’s that? ln Palestine people buy everything, right down to their morning coffee, with a credit card. Occasionally, though, you might stumble on a coin bearing the name Palestine, dating from the Ottoman Empire or British Mandate period.

The water of the Dead Sea is laden is laden with minerals. lt is 33% solids, contains 20 times as much bromine as sea water, 15 times as much magnesium and 10 times as much iodine. Bromine, a component of many sedatives, relaxes the nerves; magnesium counteracts skin allergies and clears bronchial passages; iodine; which is essential to good health, has a beneficial affect on thyroid functions.