The Republic of Palau is becoming a byword for an underwater wonderland, showcasing Micronesia’s richest flora and fauna, both on land beneath the waves. lt’s a snorkeller’s paradise, with an incredible spectrum of coral, fish and sumo-sized giant clams. There’s a good chance this bounty will survive, as Palauans are active on environmental issues, particularly regarding overtourism, overfishing, erosion, litter and pollution.

September to July, avoiding stormy August

Sailing through the twisty maze of the Rock lslands Keeping a respectful distance from a traditional bai (men’s meeting house) on Micronesia’s second-largest island, Babeldaob Climbing Malakal Hill on Koror lsland for great views of the Rock lalands Diving into history around Peleliu, the WWll-ravaged paradise Chowing down on outstanding seafood including mangrove crab and lobster at Koror’s smorgasbord of eateries

Read Arnold H Leibowitz’s Embattled lsland: Palau’s Struggle for lndependence, a US-friendly take on Palua’s postwar political history

Listen to Natural…, the first album by the Paluan band, lnXes

Watch Palau-The Enchanted lslands, a scuba adventure by filmmaker Avi Klapfer

Eat cassava, betel nut, sushi, lobster

Drink abundant and fresh coconut milk

Alii (hello)

Giant clams; maverick politicians taking on Uncle Sam; red-mouthed betel-nut chewere; WWll wrecks and ruins; storyboard art; outrigger canoes

The draft Palauan constitution of 1979-it created world’s first nuclear-free state… until the US asked for amendments; the thousands of crab-eating macaques on Angaur island

Palau’s unique art form is the storyboard, a smaller version of the carved legends that have traditionally decorated the beams and gables of men’s meeting houses. The carving style was suggested in 1935 by Japanese anthropologist Hisakatsu Hijikata, who viewed the smaller boards as a way to keep both the art form and legends from dying out. Today, many of the storyboard scenes depicted have an element of erotica.