Media impressions of Pakistan are a jumble of lslamic fundament-alism and martial law, while for overland travelers the country is often seen as the last hurdle before reaching lndia. ln fact Pakistan offers some of Asia’s most mind-blowing landscapes, extraordinary trekking, the spectacular Karakoram Highway, a multitude of cultures, and a long tradition of hospitality. lt’s the site of some of the earliest human settlements and the crucible of two of the world’s major religions: Hinduism and Buddhism.

November to April in the south (when it’s cooler), May to October in the north (before winter sets in )

Trekking among giants in Baltistan, where the Karakoram erupts in an unequalled display of peaks and twisting glaciers Experiencing an emotion-charged cricket match at Karachi Exploring the ancient site of Moenjodaro, relic of an lndus Valley civilization Soaking up the frontier atmosphere of Quetta, a desert outpost with buzzing bazaars Rambling through the tangle of twisting alleyways in Lahore’s Old City en route to the historic Lahore Fort

Read Pakistan: The Eye of the Storm, by former BBC correspondent Owen Bennett-Jones; Salman Rushdie Shame, whose characters are a metaphor for Pakistan

Listen Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, the revered Qawwali singer, who has collaborated on sountracks for dead Man Walking and The Last Temptation of Christ

Watch The second film in the Earth, Fire and Water trilogy, directed by Deepa Mehta and depicting the tragic upheaval of Partion

Eat meat and vegetable curries; hot and spicy samosas

Drink fresh fruit juices, milk tea, buttermilk flvoured with pistachios

Ap khairiyat se hai? (how are you?)

Trekking the karakoram Highway; totally obsessed cricket fans; Shoab Akhtar, the world’s fastest bowler; General Musharraf; nuclear weapons; oily, spicy curries

ln the tribal areas bordering Afghanistan federal law applies only to the roads and 10 years on either side-elsewhere tribal law applies

Sindh, dubbed the ‘Land of Uncetainties,’ is also a land of verdant patches of sheesham and pipal tress, colourful parrots, darting kingfishers, and white herons precariously perched on the backs of waddling water buffaloes. ln the hot season the landscape shimmers and its earthy browns reds and greys verge on creamy-white. ln autumn the coastline is suffused with colour, the sky and sea tinted with magical crimson hues.