Martinique is a slice of France set down in the tropics, with islanders wearing Paris fashions and breakfasting on croissants. But the zouk music pouring out of bars and nightclubs are a reminder that Martinicans have a culture of their own, solidly based on West lsdian Creole traditions. French may be the official language, but most locals speak Creole, which retains traces of the many tongues spoken by African slvas. Martinique’s large towns feel like modern suburbs, but thanlfully nearly of the island is forested.

February to March (early spring)

Enjoying the cosmopolitan society of Fort-de-France, with its blend of French and Creole cultures Exploring Saint-Pierre’s ruins, caused by the 1902 volcanic eruption Soaking in the sun on the vast stretches of beach at Les Salines Cruising the Route de la Trace, scenic rainforest drive across the mountainous interior

Read The Collected Poetry of Aime Cesaire, the force behind the Black Pride phenomenon known as negritude; Texaco by Patrick Chamoiseau and Malemort by Esdouard Glissant are also excellent reads

Listen to Shades of Black by zounk band Kassav

Watch Sugar Cane Ally, by Euzhan Palcy, documenting the love and sacrifice of a poor black family living on a sugar plantation in Martinique in the 1930s

Eat accras (fish fritters) or delicious French pastries

Drink ti-punch (a mixture of white rum, sugarcane juice and a squeeze of lemon) or the local beer, Lorraine

Bonjour (hello)

French cuisine; lush mountains; volcanoes; sugar plantations; zouk music

Josephine Bonaparte was born in Martinique; Paul Gauguin spent five months on Martinique in 1887

ln the small towns of Martinique the term ‘family’ is a broad one. So it is on surprise that a family dinner at Christmas time might involve up to 50 guests. ln addition to blood relatives and relatives by marriage, close friends and neighbours are likely to show up. And all of them hungry.