The tourist brochures bill Malawi as ‘the wram heart of africa’, and for once the hype is true. Malawi’s ever-changing landscape takes you from the top of lofty mountains, down steep escarpments, through woodland, farmland and empty grassland, to the shores of a magnificent lake. Nature lovers will adore the national parks and game reserves, mouatain hiking and plateau trekking, lake diving and boating-plus the warm welcome, as Malawians tend to be extremely friendly toward travelers.

Late April to November (the dry season)

Padding across Lake Malawi with the shrill call of fish-eagles floating across the waves Riding with zebras and antelopes across the rolling of Nyika National Park Cimbing the steep winding paths of Mt Mulanje to cool grassy plateaus speckled with wildflowers Taking a wildiflife drive through Liwonde National Park to spot elephants, antelopes, hyenas and lions Journeying back in time on the llala ferry on Lake Malawi

Read Malawian poet Steve Chimombo’s highly acclaimed The Rainmaker, or Paul Theroux’s Jungle Lovers, a light and humorous take on 1960s Malawi culture and politics

Listen to Lucius Banda, who plays soft (‘Malawian-style’) reggae, or Ethel Kamwendo, one of Malawi’s leading female singers

Watch Up in Smoke, a documentary exploring the effects of the tobacco industry in Malawi

Eat chambo (a Lake Malawi fish-a local speciality) or nsima (maize porridge-the regional staple)

Drink the locally brewed beer Chibuku

Moni (good morning)

Baobab trees; Lake Malawi; fish; national parks; trekking; teeming wildlife

Lake Malawi covers almost a fifth of Malawi’s total area; the remains of settlements of modern humans dating back some 100,000 years have been on the shores of Lake Malawi

Great emphasis is also placed on handshakes. There are various local variations, involving linked thumbs or fingers, or the left hand touching the right elbow, which you’ll pick up by observation, but these are reserved for informal occasions (not greeting officials). A ‘normal’ western handshake will do fine in most situations.