Rebellious, quirky and vibrant, Lithuania owes much to the rich cultural currents of central Europe. lt once shared an empire with neighbouring Poland that stretched from the Baltic almost to the Black Sea. lts capital Vilnius boasts a Baroque Old Town that is the largest in Eastern Europe and praised as the ‘New Prague’. Lithuania’s natural treasures also glitter-from the forests of the south to the magical Curonian Spit and the Nemunas Delta on the coast.

May to September (spring and summer)

Wandering through the winding streets of Vilnius and peering into hidden courtyards Exploring the Curonian Spit, an isolated thread of sand composed of dunes and lush pine forests inhabited by elk, deer and wild boar Savouring fish freshly smoked to an Curonian recipe Visiting the old Lithuanian of Trakai-a quiet town in an attractive area of lakes and islands dotted with old wooden cottages Soaking up the curative powers of Druskininkai’s mineral springs

Read Antanas Skma’s semi-autobiographical novel Balta drobule, which pioneered the use of consciousness in Lithuanian literature

Listen to the avant-garde jazz of the Ganelin Trio

Watch Koridorius (The Corridor) by director Sartas Bartas or The Necklace of Wolf’s Teeth by Algimantas Puipa

Eat zeppelin cepelinai, an airship-shaped parcel of thick potato dough, filled with cheese, mesa (meat) or grybai (mushrooms). lt comes topped with a sauce made from onions, butter, sour cream and bacon bits. You also might like to try smoked pig’s ears (ornot)

Drink the local beer Utenos potent stakliskes, a honey liqueur

Labas (hello)

Winning independence from the Soviet Union; Baltic states; Stalin World; Eurovision Song Contest

When visiting a Lithuanian, bring an old number of flowers-even-numbered bouquets are for the dead! Never Shake hands across a doorway, as it is believed to bring bad luck.

Described as the ‘Mecca of Lithuania,’ sight of thousands upon thousands of crosses covering the Hill of Crosses has inspired many pilgrimages. Large and tiny, expensive and cheap, wood and metal, the crosses are devotional, to accompany prayers, or finely carved folk art masterpieces. Others are memorials, tagged with flowers, a photograph or other memory of the deceased, and inscribed with a sweet or sacred message.