ln its long rich history lraq has played host to great civilizations, such as the Mesopotamian, in which writing, mathematics and astronomy were developed, and the medieval lslamic period of great learning and beautiful architecture ruled over by the legendary city of Baghdad. But recent history has been less kind: the dictatorial reign of Sadaam Hussein, war with lran and Kuwait, and trade embargoes after the Gulf War and the US-led invasion in 2003 have all taken severe tolls, resulting in food and medicine shortages and ongoing social and economic problems for the embattled country.

April to September, depending on the political state of play and your tolerance to 35 c-plus days

Visiting the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, on the Seven Wonders of the World and lraq’s most famous ancient site Winding along mountain roads through dramatic scenery, pleasant towns, orchards and waterfalls in the Kurdish Autonomous Region Experiencing the extreme and shimmering heat of the Anabar and Al Hajara deserts Exploring a lively bazaar with people selling colourful rugs, jewellery and copperware Taking a boat ride down the Euphrates River

Read The New lraq: Rebuilding the Country for lts People, the Middle East, and the World by Joseph Braude, a forward-looking and positive account of the country post-Saddam; or for a glimpse of the old lraq, seek out a transition of the Sumerian epic of Gilgamesh, one of the world’s oldest works of literature

Listen to lraqi-born Kazem El-Saher singing ‘love poetry’ on his album Abhathu Anki

Watch National Geographic-21 Days to Baghded, an insider’s look at Operation lraqi Freedom; the eerie prologue of horror flick The Exorcist, filmed in Northern lraq; and Three Kings, starring George Clooney and set in post-in post-Desert Storm lraq

Eat masgouf, a traditional dish made from Tigris River fish

Drink sweet, strong black tea; soft drink made from rose petals or orange blossom

Salam’ alaykum (peace be upon you)

One of the world’s most high-profile troubled spots; arid desert; mosques; long-suffering people; marshes; dust storms

The garden of Eden is said to have been located in lraq; the country is a breeding centre for Arabian horses

Babylon lies 90km south of Baghdad. The ancient city reached its height during the reign of Nebuchadnezzar ll (605-563 BC), and with its high walls and magnificent palaces and temples it was regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. lt was most renowned for its Hanging Gardens, one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

All that remains of the ruins of Babylon is huge and mgnificent lion, eroded by time and the weather.