Guam-northern marianas

Looking for tribal villages or ancient cultures untouched by the modern world? You won’t find them in Guam, as this strategic US territory isn’t in the ‘Tropical Paradise’ mould. You’ll have more luck in the Northern Marianas, with their turquoise waters, white sands, fine diving, snorkeling and hiking. And if you really want to get away from it all, hop over to laid-back Tinian or rustic Rota. Guam and the Northern Marianas are inextricably linked by history and geography, sharing typhoons, an archipelago, Spanish and US influences, the Mariana Trench and Chamarro culture.

December to March (the dry season)

Dodging Saipan’s golf courses to find that rare secluded beach Slowing down to the village pace of Rota Communing with monolithic latte stones or bodysurfing the beaches on Tinian Whooping it up at a fiesta in Agana’s Chamorro Village Getting romantic at Guam’s Two Lovers Point where two legendary plunged to a precipitious death

Read Micronesia: Winds of Change, spanning the history from 1521 to 1951 with accounts of early explorers, missionaries and locals

Listen to lt’s Party Time in the Marianas by the Castro Boyz for a funky mix of English and Chamorro tunes

Watch George Tweed’s short film Returm to Guam, which traces the journey back to the island by a former US serviceman

Eat anything with finadene, a hot sauce zinging with red peppers, soy sauce, lemon juice and onions that turns dishes into a real Chamorro meal

Drink a major American cola-they’re here

Hafa adai (a catch-all greeting greeting encompassing Hello, What’s up and How are you?)’

Crystal-clear blue waters and white-sand beaches; crusty American Gls comparing war wounds; package tourists ambling past centuries-old latte stones; beach bars pouring all day and night; spicy Spanish-inspired food

The Marianas are at the edge of the deep-sea Mariana Trench, so if measured from their bases the islands are actually the world’s highest mountains, dwarfing Mt Everest by 10,000 feet

Guam, an unincorporated US territory, is the metropolis of Micronesia. lt is a haven for shoopers: the Japanese come by the planeload to scoop up the duty-free items available at innumerable malls, while locals from nearby islands haunt the enormous Kmart, which stocks US goods at the cheapest prices around.