Guadeloupe’s spirited blend of French and African influences goes straight to the heart of the Caribbean’s Creole culture. As well known for its sugar and rum as for its beaches and resorts, the archipelago mixes modern cities and rural hamlets, rainforests and secluded beaches. There are nine inhabitated islands to choose from, including Grande-Terre, Basse-Terre and Marie-Galant. Bustling Pointe-a-Pitre is the main hub, but the sleepy capital is on Basse-Terre’s remote southwestern flank.

February to April (dry season)

Kicking back on the Frenchified island of Terre-de-Haut and checking out its grand 19 th -century fort Visiting the sleepy isles of La Desirade and Marie-Galante, with their uncrowded beaches and unspoilt scenery Lazing on the beach at Anse a la Gourde, a gorgeous sweep of white coral sands Exploring the rainforest in Parc National de la Guadeloupe, on Basse-Terre Snorkelling the waters of the Reserve Cousteau Hiking up the volcanic summit of Basse-Terre’s La Soufriere

Read Anabase by local popet Alezis Leger (translated by TS Eliot); The Tree of Life by Maryse Conde, centring around the life of a Guadeloupean family

Listen to local zouk group Malavoi or Gwo-ka master Guy Konket

Watch Sucre Amer directed by Christian Lara

Eat crabes farci (spicy stuffed land crabs) or Colombo cabri (curried goat)

Drink ti-punch (white rum, cane sugar and fresh lime, mixed to your own proportions), or locally brewed Corsaire beer

Bonjour!-best delivered with a big smile

Sugar; rum; beaches; resorts; fishing villages; Creole food; women in traditional Creole costume

Guadeloupe is a member of the EU; about two-thirds of all the bananas eaten in France are Guadeloupe

Home to most of Terre-de-Haut’s residents, Borg des Saints is a picturesque village with a decidedly Norman accent. lts narrow streets are lined with whitewashed, red-roofed house with shuttered windows and yards of flowering hibiscus. The ferry is met by young girls peddling tourment d’amour (agony of love) cakes with a sweet coconut filling-an almost painfully delicious island treat that makes a tasty light breakfast.