Modern French Guiana is a land of idiosyncrasies, where European Space Agency satellite launches rattle the market gardens of displaced Hmong farmers from Laos and thinly populated rainforests swallow nearly all but the country’s coastline. Highly subsidized by Mother France, it boasts the highest standard of living of any ‘country’ in South America, but look beyond the capital city and you’ll still find backwoods settlements of Maroons and Amerindians barely eking out a living.
July to December, or in late February for Carnaval
Observing by moonlight the amazing ritual of giant leatherback turtles storming the beach to eggs and their newborn offspring to the sea Visiting the fascinating former penal-settlement islands of lles du Salut by private catamaran or sailboat Learning everything you always wanted to know about rockets but were afraid to ask at Centre Spatial Guyanais (French Guiana Space Center) Hanging out in Cayenne and enjoying ethnic diversity, tropical ambience, gorgeous streetscapes and Creole cuisine Being overwhelmed by the age-old virgin rainforest in the Tresor Nature Reserve (or just about anywhere in the interior)
Read Henri Charriere’s classic Papillon for a readable first-person account of the infamous penal colony on Devil’s lsland
Listen to Caribbean rhythms with a French accent
Watch the legendary Hollywood film Papillon starring Steve McQueen and Dustin Hoffman
Eat crepe forestiere (a savoury crepe of mushrooms and cheese), Vietnamese noodles or deliciously decadent pastries
Drink rum fresh fruit juice
Chebrna (cool)
Penal settlements (particularly Devil’s lsland); French space rockets; Francophiles; turtles
French Guiana’s rain forest is 90% intake; Plage Les Hattes contains the highest density of leatherback-turtle nesting sites in the world
Cayenne is one of the loveliest capital cities in South America. ln lieu of soaring grandeur and modern urban vibrancy are bustling, colourful markets amid charming French colonial buildings ribbed with flowered balconies. The excellent Creole and Guianese food and the unique ethnic mix-locals, French expatriates, Brazilian fisherfolk, Surinamese Maroons and Hmong farmers-make this a fun place to spend a few days and eat, eat, while planning trips to the lush interior or along the populated coast.