For decades, Costa Rica was a forgotter backwater, a country so laconic it couldn’t be bothered having an army, even though it was sandwiched between war-torn Nicaragua and Canal-plagued Panama. Then North American retirees discovered its charms and its poco a poco (‘little by little’)life style, and Costa Rica became hot property. With its luxuriant rainforests, pristine white beaches, diverse wildlife, to-die-for coffee, relaxed hospitality and full-on eco-tourist trade, Costa Rica is definitely one of the destinations de jour.

December to April (the dry season)

Soaring across the jungle canopy on a flying fox Monteverde Taking time out to sit and ponder the majestic rainforest at Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio Making a nocturnal visit to Arenal volcano, followed by a soak in a hot spa Learning to surf at Witch’s Rock lgnoring the bus and doing the Fortuna to Saint Elena route by jeep and horseback

Read Costa Rica: A Traveler’s Literary Companion, 26 short stories that capture the soul of the county

Listen to Costa Rica: Calypso, happy calypso tunes for the road, from rootsy trad to pop

Watch 1492: Conquest of Paradise. This Hollywood version of Colombus’ discovery of the New Americas was always going to be problematic-a Frenchman playing an ltalian-born employee of the Spanish army interacting with Mayans is asking for trouble The location shots are stunning though.

Eat la olla, a stew of potatoes, beef, onions, maize, beans and tomatoes

Drink coffee-Costa Rica is possibly the only country in the world where even a take-away coffee in a Styrofoam cup from a fast-food burger joint tastes like ambrosia

Pura vida (literally ‘pure life’, a national expression that sums up the desire to live the best and most pure pure existence)

Dripping rainforests; toucans and macaws; erupting volcanoes; La Negrita (or the Black Madonna); dead-keen soccer fans; foaming waterfalls; the aroma of coffee

Apart from hiking and camping in rainforests and mountains and on beaches, you can snorkel on tropical refs, the best waves in South America, and raft some of the most thrilling white water in the tropics. Pristine tumble down the lower slopes of the mountains and the riverbanks are clothed with curtains of rainforest-a truly unique white-water experience.