Almost as large as Western Europe, the Democratic Republic of Congo is a sprawling mass of rainforest, fast-running rivers, red clay and dust-the epitome of Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness. Formerly called Zaire, and now often shortened to DRC, it remains intoxicatingly mysterious and largely cut off to visitors, thanks to civil war, lamentable lack of development, and naturally impenetrable terrain. The country clings to a fragile ceasefire after decades of brutal civil war and neglect, but if the situation stabilizes it has the potential to reclaim its mantle as Africa’s most adventurous destination.

December to February (north of the equator), April to October of the equator

Experiencing hectic, confusing and colourful Kinshasa Playing with bonobos (pygmy chimps)and enjoying the lakes at Chutes de Lukia Perusing the fish market at Kinkole-constructed by Mobutu to honour the country’s fishermen Travelling by barge from Kinshasa to Kissngain along the Congo River-the real highway of Central Africa

Read about Mobutu’s looting as a from of government in Michaela Wrong’s ln The Footsteps of Mr Kurtz; or The Catastrophist by Ronan Bennett, a novel built around Patrice Lumumba, the charismatic leader of the fight for independence from Belgium

Listen to the soukous of Africa’s Elvis Presley, Papa Wemba

Watch Ngangura Mweze’s Life is Rosy-a celebration of Congolese culture and folklore, starring Papa Wemba

Eat barbecued goat and manioc from street vendors, and liboke (fish stewed in manioc leaves)

Drink beer from a roadside stall

Mbote (hello)

Virgin jungle; bustling rivers; primates; political and military strife; Heart of Darkness

Bonobos are the closest relatives to humans; the current civil war being fought between rival Congolese militias (the proxy armies of Uganda and Rwanda) has caused the death of an estimated 2.5 million people

Worshipping is a business. A neighbourhood is far more likely to complain when a new church moves in (complete with sound system and huge speakers) than a brothel which at east shuts down at 4am on a Sunday morning. Devout worship at one of the country’s many imported churches-be it Protestant, Catholic or evangelical-is invariably accompanied by a strong belief in fetishisme or witchcraft. The two often meet in exorcisms, which are practically a national pastime and can be seen on TV, acted out like an alternative soap opera. lt makes for surprising compelling viewing.