The lslamic sultanate of Brunei is one of the world’s smallest countries-and richest, thanks to its treasure trove of oil. lt’s known chiefly for the astounding wealth of its sultan and for its tax-free, subsidized society. The country’s full name is Negara Brunei Darussalam, translated as ‘Brunei-the Abode of Peace’, and with alcohol virtually unobtainable, no nightlife or active political culture, it’s certainly peaceful. The capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, has retained its fringe of traditional, river-dwelling stilt villages as an enduring vision of the past, and away from the coast the landscape is taken over by largely pristine tropical forest.

March to October-or 1929 when oil was discovered, Brunei’s most memorable payday

Racing trough the waterways of Sungai Brunei in a sleek longboat Contemplating the shadows and light on the capital’s Omar Aill Saifuddien Mosque as the sun goes down Getting lost in the maze of plank-walks linking the water villages of Kampung Ayer Trekking though Brunei’s Peradayan Forest Reserve Feasting on an abundance of satay, barbecued fish, and sweet pancakes filled with peanuts, raisins and sugar at a local food market

Read Time and the River by Prince Mohamed Bolkiah, penned by the sultan’s youngest brother

Listen to the Brunei national anthem, a cheery tribute to the sultan and to prosperity

Watch any number of pirated DVDs-Brunei’s film industry is virtually nonexistent and censorship is entrenched, but video piracy is booming

Eat roti chanai for breakfast-flaky flat bread accompanied by coconut curry dipping sauce

Drink fresh fruit juices and luridly coloured soy drinks

Panas (hot)

Flamboyant sultans; exotic waterways; excellent medical and education services; a place for you liver to recuperate; strict laws; a tax haven

Daily oil production: 163,000 barrels; the oil supply is predicted to run out in 2030

Brunei has a cattle station in Australia that is larger than the sultanate itself. The 5986 sq km station in Willaroo, in Australia’s Northern Territory, supplies Brunei with beef and other meat products. The live cattle are brought direct to Brunei from Darwin and slaughtered according to halal practices.