For most outsiders this Sub – Saharan giant means bloody war, bloodier diamonds and bubbling crude – oil, that is. This, with its long, nasty marriage and messy split from Portugal has had more than a few labelling it an African basket case. But this land its people are not to be underestimated. Angolans are unshockable, resilient and resourceful. They’re fighters – but they’re lovers too Portuguese is a great language for singing about love, which is perfect for these music – mad romantics.

June to August during the dry season, or any time in peace time

Weaving your way through Luanda’s potholed, palm – fringed streets alongside Rastas, streetkids, flash, wheeler – dealer types and fashion – obsessed girls

Going wild in Kissama’s grassland park among giraffes, ostriches, and the antelope unique to Angola, the palanca

Dancing in the wake of a fast – moving Kizomba dancer, or busting a move to accordion – fuelled dance music, rebita

Soaking it up on your own stretch of beach in Namibe

Taking in the dizzing heights at Tunda – Vala volcanic fissure, 2600km above sea level

Read Angola Beloved by T Ernest Wilson, the story of a pioneering Christian missionary’s struggle to bring the gospel to an Angola steeped in witchcraft

Listen to anything by Bonga Kwenda, former world – record holding runner and star soccer player who became an African musical legend

Watch Rostov – Luanda, which documents the journey of a returning refugee across

Angola in search of an old friend

Eat calulu de peixe ( fish stew )

Drink local coffee: Angola was one of the largest producers of worldwide prior to the civil war

Tudo bom? ( how’s things? )

Mass population displacement, starvation, landmines – all the trophies of war; sparkling beaches; mineral wealth; poverty

Luanda is the fourth – most expensive city in the world ( all that imported food ); much of the large national park areas are of animals, because most have been eaten by starving

people during recent periods of conflict

ln this post – war period, relief is tempered with continuing diffcultes and the reality of dislocation. The answer is escapism and spirituality, and the vehicle is love. Angolans love going to church and they love romance. They go nuts for Valentine’s Day and soap operas. But their favourite means of removal from reality is shaking their well – shaped and sexily clad booties at all – night parties. No wonder they have the highest fertility rate in the world!