This pine – sized, sunny slice of Adriatic coast has been ground down for years by poverty and blood vendettas, but Albania now manages to pack a wild punch of traditional Mediterranean charm and Soviet-style inefficiency.lt’s a giddy of religions,styles, coultures and landscapes, from Sunni Muslim to Albanian Orthodox, and from idyllic beach or rocky mountain to cultivated field. Relics from one of the longest dictatorships in Eastern Europe rub shoulders with citrus orchards, olive groves and vineyards.

May to September

Admiring the beauty and mystique of Albania’s mountains

Getting lost in the ancient city of Durres, founded in 627 BC by the at Greeks

Visiting the stunning and well – preserved Roman ruins at Butrint

Beach – hopping from one gorgeous sun – soaked spot to another

Being overwhelmed by the strikingly picturesque museum town of Gjirokastra, perched on the side of a mountain above the Drino River

Wandering around Berat – sometimes called ‘ the city of a thousand windows’ for the many windows in its red – roofed houses

Read Broken Aril by Albania’s best – known contemporary writer, lsmail Kadare, which deals with the blood vendettas of the northern highlands before the 1939 ltalian invasion. Biografi by Lloyd Jones in a fanciful story set in immediate post – communist ear, involving the search for Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha’s alleged double

Listen to Albania, Vocal and lnstrumental Polyphony, an outstanding recording of traditional Albanian music

Watch Lamerica, a brilliant and stark look at Albanian post – communist culture

Eat ferges ( a rich beef stew ), or rosto me salce kosi ( roast beef with sour cream )

Drink the excellent wine Shesi e Zifrom either Librazhd or Berat, or raki ( a clear brndy

distilled from grapes ), taken as an aperitif

Tungjatjeta ( hello )

Polyphony; shish kebabs; a former communist state; baggy pants and colourful scarves

As much as 20% of the labour force currently works abroad, mainly in Greece and ltaly ; Albanians shake their heads to say ‘yes’ and usually nod to say ‘no’

The Kanun is an ancient social law, which outlines most aspects of social behaviour, including the treatment of guests. This has meant that Albanians can be hospitable in the extreme and will often offer travelers lodging and food free of charge. Travellers must be wary of exploiting this tradition and, while payment may well be acceptable in some cases, a small gift of a book or a memento from home will often suffice.